Italy

Milan.

Posted on by lisadnovak

November 2024

Thoughts.

First take away: when one of your dearest friends invites you to Italy, say yes. Second take away: if one of the options is Milan, say yes! Neither of us had ever visited before, and to be honest, it’s never been on my list. I assumed it would be too urban and lack a certain Italian charm. I was completely mistaken. Milan is elegant, stately and exciting. Watching the world march by in Prada was a delight. And because I was with my most foodie friend Elizabeth, we ate and drank like queens. In between, we walked miles a day just taking in the fall colors and light. I’m so grateful to have had this time with her.

Stay.

  • Senato Hotel Milano. The hotel location was great, and the hotel was comfortable and had a nice breakfast. But- I’m sure there are a number of nice places.  

Eat.

  • Da Giacomo. Fantastic seafood restaurant in a stunning setting – those hues of green! – and great vibe. If you go, tell Teo the waiter we said hi. And then promptly order the shrimp tartare and tagtelli dish. This was also the scene of my 2nd (marvelous) of 2 tiramisus.
  • Al Coniglio Blanco. Delightful lunch outside by the canals in the Navigli district. I never realized Milan had canals, and yet this area has a distinct Venice-ish vibe. Their zucchini blossoms were one of the best things we ate on the trip.
  • Zia Esternia Sobrillo. Deep. Fried. Pizza? How have I not heard / sampled / reveled in this before? Fantastic. A must do.
  • La Gioia. The people watching = as good as the food. Great scene even at 10pm, but by 12 we got kicked out only to learn the restaurant turned into a club (Gen X not invited).
  • Ciacco Lab. We confirmed that one should never go to a gelato place with ice cream piled in mounds, only those with tin covers hiding the deliciousness! Get the pistachio.  
  • Panini De Santis. A cozy panini spot with 30 types of pressed sandwiches and a friendly waitress. 
  • Campario in Galleria. I loved this old-world bar spot focused solely on Campari drinks. A mini Negroni heaven on Earth.  

 Play.

  • Villa Necchi Campiglio. Visiting this villa was my favorite activity on the trip. It demonstrated the distinct art deco design found in Milan, mixed with much of the traditional northern Italian architecture. Both the villa and grounds were rich in color and light. We happened to be there at the same time as an autumn gardening festival which was lovely. 
  • Teatro alla Scala. Elizabeth is one of my go-to culture dates and we decided to regale in the 2024-2025 ballet season premier. The performance was paralleled only by the beauty of the theatre itself. You can tour La Scala even if you don’t see a performance. 
  • Triennale di Milano. A beautiful design museum set in Parco Sempione. The Fiorucci exhibit was my favorite. On your way, stroll through the Castello Sforzesco.
  • Cementerio Monumental di Milan. We stumbled upon the cemetery while on a run and were in awe of the crypts and sculptures covering the grounds. Worth a stop.
  • BIVIO Milano. It’s not Milan without miles of shopping. I am not a vintage person, but this shop had some high-end gems.
  • Last Supper Museum. My one regret is I didn’t make it to this museum to see Davinci’s last supper, due to my lack of planning ahead. Next time.

The Dolomites.  

Posted on by lisadnovak

December 2023

Thoughts. 

We entered this trip knowing very little about skiing in the Dolomites. Skiing in this part of Italy is such a different scene – super fabulous (more fur than I’ve seen in a lifetime in Cortina alone), super laid back (no one else was on the slopes until what seemed like midday?) and super delicious food you wouldn’t expect (with a heavy German influence). We first spent a few days in Alta Badia at the NaturHotel which was wonderful. It was situated right near the lifts, served delicious food and the staff truly took care of us. 

After we moved to Cortina and I was less enamored. It’s the site of the Winter Olympics in 2026 for the second time– the first being 1956. Part of it was the lack of snow, and part of it was that it was Christmas / New Year’s with little value to be found. The people watching made up for the disastrous hotel at least. But I’d say if you have a chance to ski in Europe, we’ve enjoyed ourselves far more in Austria and France.   

Stay.

  • Miraval NaturHotel / Alta Badia.
  • Hotel Mirage / Cortina. I am only writing about this place because it was terrible. Please do not be fooled by the number of stars! 

Eat. 

  • Rufugio Lagazuoi / Alta Badia. Any restaurant you need to take a cable car to is a good restaurant to me. The views from the top of Lagazuoi were incredible   and we had the chance to hike around to peer into WWI hideouts. 
  • Il Vizietto di Cortina / Cortina. Cozy date night spot with good pasta chased by complimentary grappa.  
  • Ristorante Pizzeria 5 Torri / Cortina. decent pizza
  • Il Ponte / Cortina. Decent pizza and worth mentioning because Milo’s pizza had fries on top. 
  • Baita Fraina Enoteca / Cortina. We finally experienced “the scene” in Cortina. And it’s definitely a scene inside and outside. Despite the snow and freezing temperatures, there was a throng of people outside drinking vino…  
  • Bar Caffe Sport / Cortina. This place was more relaxed than Baita Fraina but equally as jam packed inside and out. 

Play. 

  • Dolomiti Superski Pass. Highly recommend this pass thanks to its versatility and relative affordability (for skiing).  You have access to an entire series of mountain chains that seems to go on forward. And on that note…
  • Sellaronda. I still can’t believe we did it. Or rather, that I – as the current worst skier in the family – made it. The Sella is a famous 40km+ ski circuit in South Tyrol where you circle the Sella group in one day. It was a bluebird day with the kind of winter adventure I had no idea my kids were ready for. Highly recommend.