Europe

Verbier.

Posted on by lisadnovak

February 2025

Thoughts.

Having never skied in Switzerland, it only felt right to … ski in Switzerland this winter break. Due to the lack of significant snow, the skiing was surpassed by the proliferation of melted cheese and sundown spritzes shared with some great friends. But those bluebird days on the mountain watching my kids effortlessly surpass all of us in skill was my true highlight.

To orient, Verbier is in the Val de Bagnes and part of the 4 Vallées ski area along with Thyon, Veysonnaz and Nendaz. Verbier has a vibe, but the other towns are much smaller. But you can ski to all of them to mix things up: one day we actually traversed all four valleys with backpacks and stayed the night with friends in Les Collons. All in, a great week and an easy drive from Geneva.

Stay.

  • Airbnb. Central, easy, comfortbale. There is no shortage. 
     

Eat.

  • Cabane Mont Fort. The best meal of our trip. You can only ski or hike to this spot, which makes it feel even more special. The views are spectacular and the food is even better.  
  • Le Dahu. Definitely make reservations here for a nice on mountain lunch. I dropped the ball in calling early enough to get a table. But the food is meant to be delicious and the casual cafe downstairs is decent too.
  • Le Fer a Cheval. Favorite apres for the centrality and sunsets. Didn’t eat there but wanted to. 
  • Le Rouge. Any apres to avidly embrace Bon Jovi, I embrace right back. Also great hats (I still regret not getting one) and a delicious restaurant downstairs. 
  • Restaurant Le Caveau. Fondue and raclette in a little cave! Highly recommend. 
  • Restaurant Les Chottes. Midway between Verbier and Les Collons. Eat inside in the chalet for a cozy vibe.
  • Burgers! Both Shed (in town) and Black Tap on top of the world (on Mont Fort) had delicious burgers. Although I’ll always remember the price tag more.
  • Le Metropole. We ate here on the way home from Verbier. It’s right on the lake in Montreaux, which we really enjoyed strolling through. 

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  • Boit’askis. Family run ski rental shop that offered truly exceptional service. Every single staff member was friendly and chatted with us every day we picked up the skis. Right in the center of town.
  • SKI SKI SKI. Verbier is world class for a reason. The skiing is good, and I imagine when it’s actually snowing, it’s excellent. If you are an off-piste skier, there are even more options, with many “yellow” runs – in-bound, ungroomed and too wild for me.

Bruges.

Posted on by lisadnovak

 December 2024

Thoughts.

I’ve had it in my head to visit Bruges for some time. The promise of my favorite food groups – beer, waffles, beer, chocolate and french fries – tucked all into one cozy place has lurked in the depths of my mind. We lured one of my oldest pals Simon and his family to meet us there. The actual moment of reuniting was my absolute favorite part: in the middle of the very festive Bruges Christmas Market complete with sausages and beer in the sun. The perfect Belgian moment. 

That said, Bruges was really (really) crowded and while its fairytale scenery resembles a movie set, the hordes of people made it feel like an adult Disneyland. If there’s an off-season, that’s when I’d go.

Stay.

  • In the center. We stayed outside the city center at the Radisson. It was new and nice enough. But with the uncertain weather, I wish we were a little closer to the action to easily pop in and out to take a break in the room.  

Eat. Drink.

  • In the Mood – dinner in the park. Swanky setting, vaguely surly service. But a nice non-touristy option in the park for an adults dinner. 
  • Bourgogne des Flandres. My favorite brewery tour. Why? Because the very cool brewery tour also had a very cool kids scavenger hunt. Everybody wins.
  • De Halve Mann. Also a cool tour but admittedly we may have been on the verge of beer-ed out by then. Definitely worth the visit; has a nice restaurant for food after.
  • Beerwall. Ridiculous bar with what felt like 10,000 beers. 
  • FritBar. I never found the fries of my dreams in Bruges. But this place offered plenty of fried fun for the mounds of potatoes with themes. And approximately 20 dipping sauces.  
  • Carpe Diem Bakkerji. Delicious quiches and all of the other carbs. Eat inside for maximum breakfasting. 

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  • Chocolate Workshops. Sweetest highlight. The kids loved making truffles and we got to learn about Belgian chocolate making. 
  • Boat Tour. Have to. It’s the best way to see the canals and a handful of the 80 bridges in the town!

Milan.

Posted on by lisadnovak

November 2024

Thoughts.

First take away: when one of your dearest friends invites you to Italy, say yes. Second take away: if one of the options is Milan, say yes! Neither of us had ever visited before, and to be honest, it’s never been on my list. I assumed it would be too urban and lack a certain Italian charm. I was completely mistaken. Milan is elegant, stately and exciting. Watching the world march by in Prada was a delight. And because I was with my most foodie friend Elizabeth, we ate and drank like queens. In between, we walked miles a day just taking in the fall colors and light. I’m so grateful to have had this time with her.

Stay.

  • Senato Hotel Milano. The hotel location was great, and the hotel was comfortable and had a nice breakfast. But- I’m sure there are a number of nice places.  

Eat.

  • Da Giacomo. Fantastic seafood restaurant in a stunning setting – those hues of green! – and great vibe. If you go, tell Teo the waiter we said hi. And then promptly order the shrimp tartare and tagtelli dish. This was also the scene of my 2nd (marvelous) of 2 tiramisus.
  • Al Coniglio Blanco. Delightful lunch outside by the canals in the Navigli district. I never realized Milan had canals, and yet this area has a distinct Venice-ish vibe. Their zucchini blossoms were one of the best things we ate on the trip.
  • Zia Esternia Sobrillo. Deep. Fried. Pizza? How have I not heard / sampled / reveled in this before? Fantastic. A must do.
  • La Gioia. The people watching = as good as the food. Great scene even at 10pm, but by 12 we got kicked out only to learn the restaurant turned into a club (Gen X not invited).
  • Ciacco Lab. We confirmed that one should never go to a gelato place with ice cream piled in mounds, only those with tin covers hiding the deliciousness! Get the pistachio.  
  • Panini De Santis. A cozy panini spot with 30 types of pressed sandwiches and a friendly waitress. 
  • Campario in Galleria. I loved this old-world bar spot focused solely on Campari drinks. A mini Negroni heaven on Earth.  

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  • Villa Necchi Campiglio. Visiting this villa was my favorite activity on the trip. It demonstrated the distinct art deco design found in Milan, mixed with much of the traditional northern Italian architecture. Both the villa and grounds were rich in color and light. We happened to be there at the same time as an autumn gardening festival which was lovely. 
  • Teatro alla Scala. Elizabeth is one of my go-to culture dates and we decided to regale in the 2024-2025 ballet season premier. The performance was paralleled only by the beauty of the theatre itself. You can tour La Scala even if you don’t see a performance. 
  • Triennale di Milano. A beautiful design museum set in Parco Sempione. The Fiorucci exhibit was my favorite. On your way, stroll through the Castello Sforzesco.
  • Cementerio Monumental di Milan. We stumbled upon the cemetery while on a run and were in awe of the crypts and sculptures covering the grounds. Worth a stop.
  • BIVIO Milano. It’s not Milan without miles of shopping. I am not a vintage person, but this shop had some high-end gems.
  • Last Supper Museum. My one regret is I didn’t make it to this museum to see Davinci’s last supper, due to my lack of planning ahead. Next time.

Porto.

Posted on by lisadnovak

September 2024

Thoughts. 

I swore I’ve been to Porto before, back in the early days of “when we were young”. Portugal was one of my first real trips with David, so there was as much “how compatible are we really” and “can this guy hang” as “wow, Portugal is culturally interesting”. As a result, my recall of the visit is primarily lifting some Sagres Beer mugs from a great beachside bar, and a stay above a nightclub in Lisbon. And deciding, hell yeah this guy can hang.

Twenty years later, he can still hang. And 20 years later, I’m standing in the middle of Porto realizing: nope, definitely never been here a day in my life. But we used every one of our four days there making up for it. It was a lovely trip, in large part because we got to spend time with San Francisco friends who moved to Porto the same time we moved to Barcelona. My cousin was also with us for a few days and we roamed the city with just the right amount of plans. Highly recommend. 

Stay. 

  • Selina. We walked into this place on a Thursday night and … whoa. Great vibe, but great vibes are not always great when you are trying to sleep. Still, a great neighborhood (Ribeira) and cool place with rooms surrounding a large courtyard and bar/restaurant. I’d go back.   

Eat.

  • Mae. Absolutely delicious dinner. We cancelled our original dinner plans and didn’t have a spot to go, so sort of roamed a bit trying to find a place. This one was recommended by a hostess along the way, and I am still thinking about this meal weeks later. 
  • Brasao. Delicious and not small Franchisina (little French girl), one of the traditional dishes in Portugal.
  • Nicolau Porto. Best breakfast we had. And we had a lot of breakfasts. Acai, pancakes, french toast, oh my.
  • Casa Guedes Traditional. Sat at the counter eating amazing pork sandwiches, and watched the guy making them by the dozens. 
  • Mercado do Bolhao. Beautifully restored market with endless stalls. I would have liked to have explored a bit more.  

Play.

  • Porto Bridge Climb. Loved this with the kids.
  • Boiler Studio. The tile painting workshop with Daniella was a real highlight. She has a new studio with lots of offerings, I just wish we also had time for the Pastel de Nata workshop.
  • Jardins do Palacio de Cristal. Lovely morning in the park strolling.
  • Praia de Matosinhos. We (Milo) got to surf with his school buddy at a fantastic beach. We rented from Onda Pura and afterwards got to swap stories with the Porto expats at a picnic.
  • Sail on the Douro. There are hundreds of boat cruises for a reason: it’s great! Pick one and see the city from the water.

Northern Greece. 

Posted on by lisadnovak

July 2024

Thoughts. 

Post Bulgaria, we had a little time. Because we are crazy – and because we have a fabulous Greek goddess in our life, Liz, giving us tips – it led to a road trip through the northern coast of Greece. David and I visited the Greek Islands years ago, and had a mental picture of what it would look like. But this little slice of vacationland was totally different: off the radar, fewer crowds and incredibly cheap.

We started in Kavala, a good jumping off place for a few days. Day 1 we hit the “famous” Ammolofoi beach, and Day 2 we took a fun / chaotic / ferry to Thassos Island and visited a little beach hamlet. From there we drove to the Halkidiki area – one of the three “sleeves” in northern Greece.

I appreciated the organized beach bars in all of the towns, with chairs, wicker umbrellas and full service happy hour at the ready. Every place was comfortable, cozy, welcoming and not an inch of stuffiness. These are family resorts for Greeks who want to relax. I’m so glad we went.  

Stay. 

  • Nowhere of note. Infinite Airbnbs and hotels. 

Eat.

  • To Araliki / Kavala. On this day we decided as a family we could eat Greek food every day for the rest of our lives. This big statement is coupled with a controversial one: the Bulgarian shopska salad beats out the traditional Greek one every time! 
  • Lemomidis Mpogatsa / Kavala. The day we discovered Bougatsa – essentially Greek breakfast pie – it was all over. We went daily to this tiny bakery for the flaky cream and feta filled pies.
  • 1901 Old Town Cafe / Kavala. Found a fun wine bar to play Phase 10 around 7pm with every variety of negroni so I had to love it. When we walked by later at 10pm, it was a REALLY fun wine bar where one would definitely not play Phase 10. Cute spot, nice waiters. 
  • Taverna Tra Tria Pitharia / Nea Paramos. Super family friendly tavern directly on the water. If you fell off your seat you would fall in. Clearly this made the souvlaki, fresh fish, tzatziki, eggplant, salads and 5 Euro pitches of wine taste even better. 
  • Taverna Pirofani / Sarti. Lots of Greeks “lined” up for dinner only added to the fun. One of my favorite family dinners just for the people watching.  
  • Bokeh / Vourvourou. Compared to everything else we ate in Greece, it was expensive but had a super hipster hotel vibe on the water. Good stop on the way to Sarti.

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  • Ammolofoi Beach / Kavala. Maybe 2 miles of beach bars, water sports, and a crystal clear sea, complete with a water jungle gym and water slide paddle boats. Great day. We preferred the first set of daytime beach bars over the second set; less club music / crowds.   
  • Potos Beach / Thassos. Cozy, artsy beach town on the island. But mostly, just taking the ferry to see an underdeveloped island was a cool experience.
  • Beach Arcades / Every Beach! All the arcades all the time. Turns out Greeks like air hockey too. And, miniature cars for kids to drive.

Bulgaria.

Posted on by lisadnovak

July 2024

I’m just sorry Christo is missing from this photo!

Thoughts.

The first thing people asked when we’d say we’re going to Bulgaria was: why? The answer is simple: we know the three best Bulgarians in the world.  

Going there felt out of the way and it was, if only in the sense that we were coming from Austria after meeting them a lifetime ago in San Francisco and now living in Spain – worlds away in every respect. But we promised Vera, Lubo and Christo we’d come one day. Twenty years later, it happened.  

Driving from Sofia to Plovdiv and then the Black Sea was like living a history lesson. Driving through the endless countryside of sunflowers, it was if you could see a country emerging from the Communist Era in real time. Where did this world begin and the last one end? What was it like for our friends to live through this time and then decide to move to the States at such a young age? I left Bulgaria full of respect for a life that from an American point of view feels so difficult, but one that when you actually live through it just feels like … life. 

Everything we ate was delicious (shopska salad!), every person we met was full of humor. The locals were vaguely shocked and fully delighted to have us in their country. And, from the moment we arrived in Gradina, we felt like we entered an untouched Bulgarian tradition. This special pocket of sand is a place where old friends have gathered seaside for 30 years and everything/not so much has changed all at once. The camping scene is a true throwback for that reason, and I hope it always stays that way. Thank you Very and Lubo for inviting us into your world. 

Stay. 

  • Camping / Gradina. The camper experience was close to our hearts thanks to many RV hours in Geyserville! But the camper community was the best part.. literally thousands of RVs all creatively decorated only feet from the Black Sea. We loved our time on the “south side” under the pine trees. 

Eat. 

  • Blue Stone Donuts / Plovdiv. Delicious donuts (accompanied by two kinds of burgers) at the foot of some of the oldest Roman ruins in Bulgaria. 
  • Rahat Tepe / Plovdiv. Beer garden with giant, delicious BBQ chicken skewers and shopska salad. 

Play. 

  • Red Flat / Sofia. David found this- a full replica of a Cold War Era apartment in the heart of Sofia. This made our entire stop worth it, as it gave us a much clearer understanding of what everyday life was like, not all that long ago. Highly recommend. 
  • Basilica of St. Sofia / Sofia. Orthodox church with remarkable ruins underneath.  
  • Liucy’s Surf Bar / Gradina. Best top secret beach bar in the world. We spent every day (and night) here. Why leave?  
  • Windsurfing / Gradina. At Liucy’s Bar, they have it all. Milo and I went windsurfing for the first time! The ironic twist is that he and I can only do it when there is barely any wind 😉

Salzburg & Beyond.

Posted on by lisadnovak

July 2024

Thoughts.

I always wanted to go to Salzburg because of the Sound of Music. Even though Austrians don’t even know the movie. And as the only superfan in my house, I was afraid of the ridicule. 😉

But also, the nature. I can now vouch that the technicolor green rolling hills and mountains and iridescent turquoise lakes are exactly as I dreamed of.

We will find ourselves back in that part of the world one day. There was much to see, and it’s not overcrowded in that part of Europe. There’s no stress about dinner reservations, tickets selling out, or ridiculous heat. Still tourists, but also locals. For that reason, I liked the Lake Wolfgang and Leogang Valley areas more than Salzburg itself. We were there for just a few hours but that was the right amount of time. 

Stay. 

  • Hotel Peter / Lake Wolfgang. I found this place during my first travel planning experimentation with ChatGPT (!). It was the perfect spot on the perfect lake. Even the cloudy, cool weather didn’t dampen the beauty of the place or the kindness of the staff. The food was great too. We laughed how there were more vegetables to be had in our first 4 hours in Austria than in 9 months in Spain. 
  • NaturHotel Forsthofgut / Leogang. I can only credit finding this stunning hotel to a brilliant social media strategy. The place constantly showed up in our feeds and was promptly bookmarked on the “dream of staying” list. It was our splurge hotel but I’m not sure we’d go back. It was just as beautiful as the IG photos and the staff were incredible helping us with logistics. Maybe we’re just learning that the big-ish resort experience with a massive activities program doesn’t feel totally right for us. That said, with younger kids, I can see this being a great option. Milo and Nola will vouch for the water slide. 

Eat.

  • Almstadl Schwarzensee / Lake Wolfgang. This tiny spot off of Lake Schwarzensee has fondue, candlelight and Austrian folk music. So yes!   
  • Genussschmeid / Lake Wolfgang. A Spanish restaurant serving Mexican food in landlocked Austria. There’s a riddle in there somewhere. But the restaurant was fun and funky, and the food was good.

Play. 

  • Pro Travel Radverleigh / Lake Wolfgang. Traditional bike rental and the start of a super fun family ride despite my flat tire. We rode around ¾ of the lake and then took a ferry back from St. Gilgen. I recommend the ferry experience almost as much as eating Kaiserschmarrn and apple strudel in St Gilgen for lunch.   
  • See-Biker / Lake Wolfgang. E-bike rental. I am a bit of a purist, but my first real e-bike ride clarified why people love it. It allowed Milo and I to ride up a 17% grade and around Lake Schwarzensee. This wouldn’t have happened without the assist. Definitely a highlight. 
  • Original Sound of Music Tour / Salzburg. You already know I am a Sound of Music nerd. I love this movie, and I know every song. So to visit many of the film locations was so much fun, especially because the kids got really into it and the guide was great. And yes, you get to sing on the bus!  
  • Peter-Wiechenthaler Hutte / Leogang. Hiked up to the mountain refugio. It was the first major hike since David’s knee surgery, and we didn’t expect it to be so tough. Great views tho and next time we stay for a beer at the top. 
  • Senses Park / Leogang. Creative mountain park for families. Just taking the cable car up and seeing the view was enough for me, but the kids also loved the different sensory experiences using water, sand and art installations.

Ibiza.

Posted on by lisadnovak

June 2024

Thoughts 

Ibiza. Just say yes. Especially if it’s someone’s birthday and someone else is planning the most fantastic holiday of all time. My friend of 25 years turned 50 – how have I known anyone for half their life? – and her husband organized a friends’ trip of a lifetime. He thought of every detail and I thought of my next cocktail. To that end, all credit for every recommendation here is to him. But it was enough to make me fall in love with Ibiza even though I was always a little afraid of my idea of it. There is something for everyone here, not just Mike Posner.  

Stay 

  • Rental. We stayed in the hills surrounded by olive trees and bouganvilla. The place was otherworldly. All credit to our host for the spoiling of us. But in a more reality-based next time, having seen the main Ibiza town, I think staying slightly outside the fray would be our move.  

Eat

  • Chiringuito Cala Xuclar. Best lunch I have had in Spain since moving here 9 months ago. The freshest fish, the most delicious starters & the coldest rose, all with sandy feet and swimsuits. 
  • PaloSanto Ibiza. Second favorite meal in Ibiza. Spanish riff on Mexican with all the tequila cocktails to enforce the theme. I get that octopus is polarizing but I have never had  
  • Es Moli de Sal / Formentera. We pulled up on a boat and ate lunch. That could essentially end the description, that’s how lovely it was. Get the lobster salad, I didn’t and I still regret it.  
  • Experimental Beach. Am I in the Hamptons or Ibiza? I don’t care, the people-watching and sunset-seeing are marvelous. Good food too. 
  • Sunset Ashram. “Best sunset in Ibiza”? Not sure but cool bar to grab a drink to watch the people watching the disappearing sun (and clapping).

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  • Beach, boats, pool. Pretty much the formula of the week. There are so many beaches and coves and places to explore. The main highlight tho was renting a boat to and exploring the beaches of Formentera from the water. Head over there and pull up for lunch at one of the seaside restaurants.  
  • Sunsets. Second to beach, boats, pool, but equally as important and even more stunning. Sunsets in Ibiza are a thing. The last one we saw was accompanied by clapping. 
  • Las Dalias de Ibiza. Aka: Hippy Market. What is this place? It is definitely a place. Think artisan market – meets pop up bars – meets outdoor dance club.You can buy all the Boho fringe you want followed by a bit of EDM.  
  • Hiking. We did only a smidge near our place but the opportunities look infinite. Next time…

The Dolomites.  

Posted on by lisadnovak

December 2023

Thoughts. 

We entered this trip knowing very little about skiing in the Dolomites. Skiing in this part of Italy is such a different scene – super fabulous (more fur than I’ve seen in a lifetime in Cortina alone), super laid back (no one else was on the slopes until what seemed like midday?) and super delicious food you wouldn’t expect (with a heavy German influence). We first spent a few days in Alta Badia at the NaturHotel which was wonderful. It was situated right near the lifts, served delicious food and the staff truly took care of us. 

After we moved to Cortina and I was less enamored. It’s the site of the Winter Olympics in 2026 for the second time– the first being 1956. Part of it was the lack of snow, and part of it was that it was Christmas / New Year’s with little value to be found. The people watching made up for the disastrous hotel at least. But I’d say if you have a chance to ski in Europe, we’ve enjoyed ourselves far more in Austria and France.   

Stay.

  • Miraval NaturHotel / Alta Badia.
  • Hotel Mirage / Cortina. I am only writing about this place because it was terrible. Please do not be fooled by the number of stars! 

Eat. 

  • Rufugio Lagazuoi / Alta Badia. Any restaurant you need to take a cable car to is a good restaurant to me. The views from the top of Lagazuoi were incredible   and we had the chance to hike around to peer into WWI hideouts. 
  • Il Vizietto di Cortina / Cortina. Cozy date night spot with good pasta chased by complimentary grappa.  
  • Ristorante Pizzeria 5 Torri / Cortina. decent pizza
  • Il Ponte / Cortina. Decent pizza and worth mentioning because Milo’s pizza had fries on top. 
  • Baita Fraina Enoteca / Cortina. We finally experienced “the scene” in Cortina. And it’s definitely a scene inside and outside. Despite the snow and freezing temperatures, there was a throng of people outside drinking vino…  
  • Bar Caffe Sport / Cortina. This place was more relaxed than Baita Fraina but equally as jam packed inside and out. 

Play. 

  • Dolomiti Superski Pass. Highly recommend this pass thanks to its versatility and relative affordability (for skiing).  You have access to an entire series of mountain chains that seems to go on forward. And on that note…
  • Sellaronda. I still can’t believe we did it. Or rather, that I – as the current worst skier in the family – made it. The Sella is a famous 40km+ ski circuit in South Tyrol where you circle the Sella group in one day. It was a bluebird day with the kind of winter adventure I had no idea my kids were ready for. Highly recommend.

Granada, Cordoba, Seville.

Posted on by lisadnovak

December 2023

Thoughts.

Northern and Southern Spain are completely different worlds. Living in Barcelona now I appreciate that even more than I did when Claudia and I made our virgin voyage alllll the way back in 1999 to Seville. Or maybe I just appreciate that I could afford more than just cheap beer and pan de tomate this time around (although both staples are still greatly appreciated). 

It was a B- trip for us. Not so much about the sites as about the situation. The kids have off in December for Dia de la Constitució (Spanish Constitution Day) and La Immaculada Concepció. This is a unique to Spain holiday combo which means every Spaniard is off and every Spaniard is looking for the warmest place to celebrate. Knowing none of this we found ourselves in the midst of a fray everywhere we went.

We flew to Granada, drove to Cordoba and Seville and then flew out 5 days later. Some of the best parts of the trip were road tripping through gorgeous grape and orange tree fields and watching the storks construct enormous nests atop every utility pole– all to the Adam Sandler Hanukkah soundtrack on repeat. Some of the worst parts were all.of.the.people. Which made it harder to enjoy the rich history and beautiful offerings of this part of the world. That said, I’d go back, especially to Granada. It was lush and green with movie-set worthy rolling hills. Just not on a holiday weekend!

Stay.

  • Nowhere noteworthy. Lots of Airbnb options tho.

Eat.

  • Bodegas Castaneda / Granada. Dinner at *great* tapas spot. My favorite in Spain! Be sure to walk around the corner to find the tapas bar (vs. restaurant) as it’s much more chaotic, lively and authentic.
  • Restaurante Jardines Alberto / Granada. Beautiful restaurant with multiple terraces directly across from the Alhambra. We had lunch here but I’m sure the sunsets are beautiful later in the day. 
  • ConTenedor / Seville: Date night with David. It had a different twist on Spanish food, which is a welcome departure after my fall croqueta binge.
  • Cookie Love Love / Seville: DELISH!!!! Cookies made by a nice Texan girl.
  • Las Teresas / Seville. Lovely and authentic lunch spot in Jewish Quarter
  • Bar Catedral Seville / Seville. Themed with bulls. Lively, fun, good.

Play.

  • Alhambra / Granada. We toured with a fabulous tour guide Veronica at Alhambra Guide. Tickets were *incredibly* difficult to book and $$, although it was a holiday weekend in Spain so maybe that’s why? Still, several operators would change the tour times last minute which made it hard to plan around. But! Very worth it even though the kids were moaning about a 3 hour tour (I don’t totally blame them ;). One of my favorite sites in Spain.  
  • Cordoba Mosque / Cordoba. Truly stunning and fascinating historic site coupled by an equally stunningly bad tour. Stay far away from OWAY Tours.
  • Real Alcazar / Seville. Beautiful. We did an audio guide tour and it was decent. There was even a kids orchestra performing in the main square. Couldn’t get into Cathedral de Seville and were disappointed because we wanted to see Columbus’ Tomb.
  • Checkpoint Arcade Bar / Seville. Fun spot for a cocktail and board games. I just may have made a guest appearance in their Instagram story that night. 
  • Hercules Placa / Seville. Fun vibe, lively with a Christmas Market and cafes, just not so fun to be sleeping above it.