Milan.

Bruges.

Posted on by lisadnovak

 December 2024

Thoughts.

I’ve had it in my head to visit Bruges for some time. The promise of my favorite food groups – beer, waffles, beer, chocolate and french fries – tucked all into one cozy place has lurked in the depths of my mind. We lured one of my oldest pals Simon and his family to meet us there. The actual moment of reuniting was my absolute favorite part: in the middle of the very festive Bruges Christmas Market complete with sausages and beer in the sun. The perfect Belgian moment. 

That said, Bruges was really (really) crowded and while its fairytale scenery resembles a movie set, the hordes of people made it feel like an adult Disneyland. If there’s an off-season, that’s when I’d go.

Stay.

  • In the center. We stayed outside the city center at the Radisson. It was new and nice enough. But with the uncertain weather, I wish we were a little closer to the action to easily pop in and out to take a break in the room.  

Eat. Drink.

  • In the Mood – dinner in the park. Swanky setting, vaguely surly service. But a nice non-touristy option in the park for an adults dinner. 
  • Bourgogne des Flandres. My favorite brewery tour. Why? Because the very cool brewery tour also had a very cool kids scavenger hunt. Everybody wins.
  • De Halve Mann. Also a cool tour but admittedly we may have been on the verge of beer-ed out by then. Definitely worth the visit; has a nice restaurant for food after.
  • Beerwall. Ridiculous bar with what felt like 10,000 beers. 
  • FritBar. I never found the fries of my dreams in Bruges. But this place offered plenty of fried fun for the mounds of potatoes with themes. And approximately 20 dipping sauces.  
  • Carpe Diem Bakkerji. Delicious quiches and all of the other carbs. Eat inside for maximum breakfasting. 

 Play.

  • Chocolate Workshops. Sweetest highlight. The kids loved making truffles and we got to learn about Belgian chocolate making. 
  • Boat Tour. Have to. It’s the best way to see the canals and a handful of the 80 bridges in the town!

Milan.

Posted on by lisadnovak

November 2024

Thoughts.

First take away: when one of your dearest friends invites you to Italy, say yes. Second take away: if one of the options is Milan, say yes! Neither of us had ever visited before, and to be honest, it’s never been on my list. I assumed it would be too urban and lack a certain Italian charm. I was completely mistaken. Milan is elegant, stately and exciting. Watching the world march by in Prada was a delight. And because I was with my most foodie friend Elizabeth, we ate and drank like queens. In between, we walked miles a day just taking in the fall colors and light. I’m so grateful to have had this time with her.

Stay.

  • Senato Hotel Milano. The hotel location was great, and the hotel was comfortable and had a nice breakfast. But- I’m sure there are a number of nice places.  

Eat.

  • Da Giacomo. Fantastic seafood restaurant in a stunning setting – those hues of green! – and great vibe. If you go, tell Teo the waiter we said hi. And then promptly order the shrimp tartare and tagtelli dish. This was also the scene of my 2nd (marvelous) of 2 tiramisus.
  • Al Coniglio Blanco. Delightful lunch outside by the canals in the Navigli district. I never realized Milan had canals, and yet this area has a distinct Venice-ish vibe. Their zucchini blossoms were one of the best things we ate on the trip.
  • Zia Esternia Sobrillo. Deep. Fried. Pizza? How have I not heard / sampled / reveled in this before? Fantastic. A must do.
  • La Gioia. The people watching = as good as the food. Great scene even at 10pm, but by 12 we got kicked out only to learn the restaurant turned into a club (Gen X not invited).
  • Ciacco Lab. We confirmed that one should never go to a gelato place with ice cream piled in mounds, only those with tin covers hiding the deliciousness! Get the pistachio.  
  • Panini De Santis. A cozy panini spot with 30 types of pressed sandwiches and a friendly waitress. 
  • Campario in Galleria. I loved this old-world bar spot focused solely on Campari drinks. A mini Negroni heaven on Earth.  

 Play.

  • Villa Necchi Campiglio. Visiting this villa was my favorite activity on the trip. It demonstrated the distinct art deco design found in Milan, mixed with much of the traditional northern Italian architecture. Both the villa and grounds were rich in color and light. We happened to be there at the same time as an autumn gardening festival which was lovely. 
  • Teatro alla Scala. Elizabeth is one of my go-to culture dates and we decided to regale in the 2024-2025 ballet season premier. The performance was paralleled only by the beauty of the theatre itself. You can tour La Scala even if you don’t see a performance. 
  • Triennale di Milano. A beautiful design museum set in Parco Sempione. The Fiorucci exhibit was my favorite. On your way, stroll through the Castello Sforzesco.
  • Cementerio Monumental di Milan. We stumbled upon the cemetery while on a run and were in awe of the crypts and sculptures covering the grounds. Worth a stop.
  • BIVIO Milano. It’s not Milan without miles of shopping. I am not a vintage person, but this shop had some high-end gems.
  • Last Supper Museum. My one regret is I didn’t make it to this museum to see Davinci’s last supper, due to my lack of planning ahead. Next time.

Berlin.

Posted on by lisadnovak

June 2024

Thoughts. 

I’ve heard Berlin described as gritty, cool, and international. There’s a tension underlying the starkness and beauty of the architecture, the people, the graffiti, and what’s left of the wall. It was hard not to feel like everything had meaning, which made it feel important to see and understand.

Spending time there with friends — from Berlin as well as the Bay Area — also added a level of warmth and familiarity that deepened our experience beyond being tourists at Checkpoint Charlie.  It didn’t hurt we were also there for the European Futbol Championships, and Germany beat Denmark while we were there. Every cafe had a TV on the sidewalk with locals pouring onto the streets to watch, adding such great energy to the city. Berlin, we will be back. Just next time don’t lose our luggage.
 

Stay. 

Eat.

  • Cafe am Neuen See. My favorite place in Berlin. It has all of the things – nature, beer, great food and music. It’s situated in Tiergarten Park where I plan to spend more time next time. 
  • Cafe Restaurant Jolesch. Fantastic schnitzel and Kaiserschmarrn – like a cross between a Dutch Baby pancake and bread pudding. In Kreuzberg neighborhood which I really liked. 
  • Van Loon Restaurant Boat. Great place for fish and chips on the canal. We walked the canal at night after dinner, what a cool vibe. Next time I’ll bring beers to the Admiralbrucke Bridge and get lost in the crowd. 

Play. 

  • Berlin Third Reich & Cold War Walking Tour. This tour was essential to our Berlin experience because of the sites, but moreover because of the knowledge and passion of our guide Georgia. When we travel, I understand the basic history of most places, and know I can refresh myself by reading or listening to an audio guide. But, this tour offered a poignant and important reminder of the sobering and highly relevant history that played out on the very streets we walked on. I can’t recommend this enough. 
  • East Side Gallery. A 1km stretch of the Berlin Wall painted by street artists after German reunification. Moving, beautiful and intensive reminder of the division that appeared in the city practically overnight. 
  • Solarwaterworld Hafen. Took a 2.5 hour solar boat tour on the River Spree with friends. It was a great way to see the city from a different angle.