Poland

Poland.

Posted on by lisadnovak

April 2025

Thoughts.

I spent a lot of this trip thinking about why people leave.

We had some powerful moments here in Poland, confronting the Holocaust at Auschwitz and visiting the lives of Duszak’s past, many of whom moved to Delaware in the early 1900s. The question of what motivates someone to change the course of their lives – running from, searching for, being forced, feeling inspired, overcome with desperation – was a throughline through many of our days here. More than one hundred years ago that leap was defined by the unknown. No internet, no ChatGPT itineraries, no one on the other side of the ocean to really tell you what to expect. It was this blind faith that got so many of us to exactly where we are today, often not giving it much thought.   

This ponderance, along with the vibrant green farmland and infinite birch forests deepened my interest in this place. The beauty, the people, the food, the culture all feels so familiar and so new all at once. There was a daily diet of boiled/fried/baked pierogis of every flavor – cheese, meat, duck, couscous (!?), paczki (donuts), zapiekanki (“Polish Pizza”-ish), tons of kielbasa, fried cheese, potato pancakes and goulash. All of this paired with horseradish/pickles/cranberry sauce, and washed down with Polish vodka.

N’ostrova, Poland.

Eat.

Play.

  • Wieliczka Salt Mine / Krakow. This “Miner’s Tour” was the kids’ highlight, with 3 hours underground experience pretending to be miners while the Gen Z’ers TikTok’d the entire thing. Definitely recommend.  
  • Taste Vodka Tour / Krakow. Fun group walking tour visiting 4-5 vodka bars to sample the local wares. Horseradish wins the weirdest vodka award.
  • Lazienki Krolewskie / Warsaw. Beautiful park in Warsaw. My kids fed squirrels, I basked in full blown spring. Major props to Warsaw—the city was covered in tulips!
  • Torun. Walked through historic city in western Poland, famous for its gingerbread.

Learn.

  • Polish Origins / Warsaw. What a complicated experience to track ancestors you know so little about but who play a central role in the foundations of your life.  Our guide was a crack genealogist who knows all the tricks to finding long lost relatives – how I missed you Uncle Tom! Some of the leads we were chasing were quite humorous including a visit to a veterinary clinic, leaving notes in Polish cemeteries or cold calling a random politician with the same last name.  My highlight was seeing where my great grandfather was born … even calling it a village is too strong. It consisted of a crucifix at the intersection and a bus stop, with four houses. I was struck by the vastness of the countryside even 150 years later.
  • Auschwitz Berkinow / Krakow. Without question, this was our most intense part of the visit. We debated for weeks if the kids should accompany us. I was reticent, but several friends assured me it would be difficult, but within their limit of understanding. The b’nai mitzvahs on the horizon was a key reason- it felt like this was our moment to share with them something so important to their heritage as they deepen their studies. Although I had been to Dachu many years ago, the scale of Auschwitz deeply affected me. It was a worthwhile visit that echoed with some fears of real life.   
  • Schindler’s Factory / Krakow. I am so disappointed to have missed this, especially after watching the movie while in Poland. Definitely recommend.

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