June 2024

Thoughts. 

I’ve heard Berlin described as gritty, cool, and international. There’s a tension underlying the starkness and beauty of the architecture, the people, the graffiti, and what’s left of the wall. It was hard not to feel like everything had meaning, which made it feel important to see and understand.

Spending time there with friends — from Berlin as well as the Bay Area — also added a level of warmth and familiarity that deepened our experience beyond being tourists at Checkpoint Charlie.  It didn’t hurt we were also there for the European Futbol Championships, and Germany beat Denmark while we were there. Every cafe had a TV on the sidewalk with locals pouring onto the streets to watch, adding such great energy to the city. Berlin, we will be back. Just next time don’t lose our luggage.
 

Stay. 

• Melia INNSIDE Berlin Mitte. Fine, but find somewhere else more central. 

Eat.

• Cafe am Neuen See. My favorite place in Berlin. It has all of the things – nature, beer, great food and music. It’s situated in Tiergarten Park where I plan to spend more time next time. 
• Cafe Restaurant Jolesch. Fantastic schnitzel and Kaiserschmarrn – like a cross between a Dutch Baby pancake and bread pudding. In Kreuzberg neighborhood which I really liked. 
• Van Loon Restaurant Boat. Great place for fish and chips on the canal. We walked the canal at night after dinner, what a cool vibe. Next time I’ll bring beers to the Admiralbrucke Bridge and get lost in the crowd. 

Play. 

• Berlin Third Reich & Cold War Walking Tour. This tour was essential to our Berlin experience because of the sites, but moreover because of the knowledge and passion of our guide Georgia. When we travel, I understand the basic history of most places, and know I can refresh myself by reading or listening to an audio guide. But, this tour offered a poignant and important reminder of the sobering and highly relevant history that played out on the very streets we walked on. I can’t recommend this enough. 
• East Side Gallery. A 1km stretch of the Berlin Wall painted by street artists after German reunification. Moving, beautiful and intensive reminder of the division that appeared in the city practically overnight. 
• Solarwaterworld Hafen. Took a 2.5 hour solar boat tour on the River Spree with friends. It was a great way to see the city from a different angle.