December 2023

Thoughts. 

We entered this trip knowing very little about skiing in the Dolomites. Skiing in this part of Italy is such a different scene – super fabulous (more fur than I’ve seen in a lifetime in Cortina alone), super laid back (no one else was on the slopes until what seemed like midday?) and super delicious food you wouldn’t expect (with a heavy German influence). We first spent a few days in Alta Badia at the NaturHotel which was wonderful. It was situated right near the lifts, served delicious food and the staff truly took care of us. 

After we moved to Cortina and I was less enamored. It’s the site of the Winter Olympics in 2026 for the second time– the first being 1956. Part of it was the lack of snow, and part of it was that it was Christmas / New Year’s with little value to be found. The people watching made up for the disastrous hotel at least. But I’d say if you have a chance to ski in Europe, we’ve enjoyed ourselves far more in Austria and France.   

Stay.

• Miraval NaturHotel / Alta Badia.
• Hotel Mirage / Cortina. I am only writing about this place because it was terrible. Please do not be fooled by the number of stars! 

Eat. 

• Rufugio Lagazuoi / Alta Badia. Any restaurant you need to take a cable car to is a good restaurant to me. The views from the top of Lagazuoi were incredible   and we had the chance to hike around to peer into WWI hideouts. 
• Il Vizietto di Cortina / Cortina. Cozy date night spot with good pasta chased by complimentary grappa.  
• Ristorante Pizzeria 5 Torri / Cortina. decent pizza
• Il Ponte / Cortina. Decent pizza and worth mentioning because Milo’s pizza had fries on top. 
• Baita Fraina Enoteca / Cortina. We finally experienced “the scene” in Cortina. And it’s definitely a scene inside and outside. Despite the snow and freezing temperatures, there was a throng of people outside drinking vino…  
• Bar Caffe Sport / Cortina. This place was more relaxed than Baita Fraina but equally as jam packed inside and out. 

Play. 

• Dolomiti Superski Pass. Highly recommend this pass thanks to its versatility and relative affordability (for skiing).  You have access to an entire series of mountain chains that seems to go on forward. And on that note…
• Sellaronda. I still can’t believe we did it. Or rather, that I – as the current worst skier in the family – made it. The Sella is a famous 40km+ ski circuit in South Tyrol where you circle the Sella group in one day. It was a bluebird day with the kind of winter adventure I had no idea my kids were ready for. Highly recommend.